Roasted Duck With Citrus-Cranberry Sauce

Muscovy duck is prepared much the same as any other game meat – this one is classically served rare to medium rare (I like it edging into medium, but I’m a Philistine).

Muscovy duck pairs well with sweet/tart combinations, such as tart dried cherries, pomegranate molasses, orange, clementine, lemon, and sweeteners, or any combination of these. Good side dishes include … Read more

Pasta with Dungeness Crab

I grew up in San Francisco, so Dungeness crab was a frequent autumn visitor to our table. But it wasn’t until I was out on my own, in my early twenties, that I created my own personal ritual. As soon as I heard that crab season had begun, I would head down to the wharf with a friend and pick … Read more

Persimmon Cake

Persimmon trees are a prequel to the Christmas holidays. They lose their leaves in autumn, but the fruit remains hanging, like brilliant little ornaments in an otherwise stark landscape. I’ve always loved their intense color and sweet, smooth flesh.

I was introduced to persimmons by my grandmother, who had a tree in her backyard. She would pick semi-ripe fruit and Read more

Turkey Tetrazzini

The opera singer Luisa Tetrazzini is thought to be the namesake of this dish, which allegedly originated in San Francisco, where she lived during the early 1900s.

All I know for certain is that Turkey Tetrazzini was a staple after-Thanksgiving dish in our San Francisco household. Whether my mother picked up this recipe from living in the city of its … Read more

Thai Coconut Soup (Tom Kha Gai)

It’s four days before Thanksgiving, and I have The Cold From Hell. I’m already three days into this beast, and have the requisite fever, aches, sneezes, coughs, and honks. Drat.

If there’s ever a time when being grateful is challenging, it’s right now. But on the other hand, I have a purring cat, a warm home…and this soup.

Warming, savory, … Read more

Cream Cheese Frosting

CreamCheeseFrostingCream cheese frosting is easy to make and useful for all sorts of desserts. One-minute muffins, low carb carrot cakes, persimmon cakes, spice or pumpkin cakes…even fresh fruit, all benefit from it. You can change things up, too: reduce the butter and add a few tablespoons of sour cream or yogurt, increase or decrease the Swerve*, add lemon zest, ginger, Read more